This whole building was made without a piece of lumber most likely. The door frames appear to be made of metal - no studs above them. There are concrete ceilinns and concrete floors and then basically all the walls are non loadbearing, with concrete pillars probably hidden deep inside somewhere.Ģ. It's an apartment building built in the late fifties early 60s. In answer to a couple of recurrent questions:ġ. This is a fabulous idea, as I do have access to both sides. Also thank you everyone for your super fast, varies responses. Once the adhesive has set, usually overnight, the plaster rings can be removed. Finally, a plaster ring is drilled into the lath which pulls the wall tight to the wood. A conditioner is sprayed into each hole, followed by an injection of adhesive. That way you are less likely to crack the plaster when you tighten the nuts. A masonry drill bit will go through the plaster not through the wood. Even better, slip the bolts through a piece of EMT or other tubing that's as long as the wall is thick, and then put some big fender washers under the head and nut. Alternatively, if you have access to both sides of the wall, and a long enough drill bit, mount the board with bolts that go all the way through the wall. Toggles with the longest, widest wings you can find. The tape will help keep some of the crumbling plaster from falling out in the middle of your cut if there is any and it helps you see what you are cutting. That will, locally, turn the wall into an impromptu SIP. Use painter’s or masking tape to mark off the areas you are going to be cutting and draw your cut line on the tape. If the walls are as unsupported as you claim, you can make them rigid in the area where you're attaching things by pumping some expanding urethane foam insulation into the cavity. Wall cabinets are sometimes installed this way because it's so easily undone or adjusted.
His go-to material is a flexible patch compound, Sheetrock® Brand Dust Control Patch and Repair Compound, specifically used for stress cracks on the wall.Mauro also used fiberglass drywall tape 2x 150 (50mm x 45.72m) by Dynamic. This system allows you to easily take down the hangboard and reconsider your wall mount system if necessary. Mauro shares the best techniques for patching and repairing cracks in plaster walls. Then simply hook one bevelled strip over the other. Mount the other on the back of the plywood that your hangboard is on, with the bevel down and its toe outward. If you've got access to a saw, you could also rip a couple of strips of wood or plywood or something with a 10 or 15 degree bevel along one edge, and mount one strip on the wall with the bevel up and its toe outward. That way you are less likely to crack the plaster when you tighten the nuts.